Make Cancer Your B%^$c

Hooked up with a group of friends and paddlers for 24 hours on the water. Serious cause, great watermen, and a great time all around. Videos and more pics to come…

On Wishing


I wish I could see the boys in the water for the fog.

Men, I think, surveying a pile of clothes, warming but the topmost layer of cold sand.

Of all days, I wish, and only wish.  The steady hiss of surf.

For a moment the clouds part, but they are gone, laughing at ill-timed take-offs or a flock of silent pelicans pulling out of the next wave.

I wish I could see you.

Firing and Fired

Well the World Championships of Bodysurfing has been visited by a solid 4-6′ swell and excellent conditions.

Unfortunately, I got knocked out in the first round amid much protesting (I was literally the only person that sucked up more than two waves). Oh well, such is life.

The boys go tomorrow. Much luck to them…maybe get a little payback for Dad.